Goa: This heritage bed-and-breakfast enlivens a century-old family legacy

Built exactly 132 years ago by his forefathers, Casa Gracia holds a special place in Nelson Fernandes's heart. Not only because it is named after his late grandmother Grace, but also because, for over a century, it has housed generations of Fernandeses. But in 2020, after seeing the house fall into disrepair, Fernandes decided that it was time for change. He decided to join hands with Acaso Living, a Goan hospitality company, to help restore and renovate the heritage home, and turn it into a bed-and-breakfast. "It was at this stage that I was brought on board," says Rochelle Santimano, founder and principle architect of Studio Praia, who was enlisted to bring the home back to life, albeit in a modern avatar.

Heritage Hallmarks

Situated in the quaint Goan village of Assagao, known for its elegant colonial villas, Casa Gracia has all the hallmarks of Portuguese-era architecture. "The main challenge was to modernise the shell while retaining its heritage charm and distinctive architectural features," says Santimano. What came next was an exhaustive redesign: While the balcão, verandah and main living hall were kept intact, the designer added two new bedrooms—including an outhouse-turned-main suite—to the original three-bedroom layout. "The main bedroom has a verandah and enjoys splendid views of the garden, which also plays host to a gazebo and a pool," shares Santimano. For the design process, she took cues from the original architecture. For instance, the segmental arched niches in the circulation passage mirror the home's colonial doorways, and the built-in cement oxide seats are a hat-tip to the sopo or balcão. "We also decided to redesign certain elements that felt dated or obsolete. For example, we broke down the existing concrete railing in the verandah and replaced it with an unconventional Rhapis palm planter detail," notes Santimano.

Modern Touches

Like most old Goan homes, Casa Gracia has architectural features that nod to its colonial heritage. Its 2-feet-thick walls, built in laterite stone and mud and finished in lime plaster, are an unmistakable emblem of pre-independence Goa; as are the pitched roof profile and colonial-style red oxide flooring. So naturally for Santimano, retaining them was non-negotiable. "Lime plaster is a material that allows the home's mud-stone walls to breathe. And its imperfect finish only adds to the wabi-sabi charm of the house," she explains. When it came to the pitched roof, the designer opted for a modish twist: The rafters sport a charcoal finish, while glass inserts in the Mangalore tiles serve as dreamy light catchers. Santimano also added a handful of new doors and windows, deftly distressed to match the old ones. She made sure the updates were all sustainable: The Mangalore tiles that crown the gazebo were sourced from the ruins of a house in the vicinity, and throughout the bungalow, old garrafãos (a large jug) and jars masquerade as decor elements. “We did not cut a single tree, rather planning our layout around the ones already present,” says the designer.

Restored Gems

If you were to enter Casa Gracia a century ago, the furniture would have looked none too different. "All the furniture in the living room is restored, having belonged to the original home,” says Santimano, who chose a soft white shade for the wood, and ikat and block print fabrics in shades of grey, charcoal and bottle green for the upholstery. In keeping with the home’s patina, most other pieces were either sourced from local antique furniture vendors or custom-made for the home. The statement fabric chandelier in the living room was handmade by Santimano.

A Spirit of Susegad

Lush foliage, the tatter of birds and monkeys, and the spirit of susegad make Casa Gracia one of those grandmotherly retreats where you can hang up your boots and become temporarily invisible. "Right from my initial site visit, I knew that I wanted the home to draw from its peaceful surroundings," says Santimano of her decision to go ‘tropical-chic’. And so, the butterscotch paint on the walls was replaced by a vanilla, the dark brown windows and doors are now a fresh sage, and the brown vitrified tiles were eschewed in favour of cement tiles in a cool grey-and-white floral pattern. For the outdoors, a grey natural Kota stone is the material of choice for all flooring and pathways, and grey cement oxide clads the balcão and (newly installed) built-in seats.